Should You Be Winter Watering?

Written: January 2024

As the ‘23-’24 winter proves to be significantly warmer and drier than usual in Northern Colorado, it has become more necessary to consider winter watering. There are several practices to take into account, however, before you break out the garden hose.

First of all, it is best to apply water when the daytime temperatures are expected to remain above 40 degrees for a minimum of 3-4 hours, and only when there is little or no ice or snow on the ground to impede the infiltration of the water into the soil. Watering at a low flow rate will help to alleviate runoff and excessive water waste.

Secondly, most lawns typically maintain their dormancy during the winter months, especially when snow and rainfall are lacking, and DO NOT NEED supplemental watering. The extreme drought and resulting water restrictions of the 2002-2003 growing seasons taught us that these lawns will bounce right back once regular watering resumes.

The winter watering of perennials, shrubs and trees may be necessary, especially if warmer temperatures and drier conditions persist. This is especially true for evergreen species such as Fir, Spruce, Pine, Yew, Juniper and broadleaf evergreens as these continue to photosynthesize throughout the winter months. Deciduous trees, shrubs and perennials will also appreciate some supplemental moisture. Be sure to apply the water slowly and to the feeder roots of the plants in need. Mature trees have their feeder roots well away from their trunk and may need to be watered as much as 15-20’ from the trunk of the tree. A good rule of thumb is to water the trees under the ends of their out-reaching branches (i.e. under their drip line). It is also advised to put down approximately 10 gallons of water for every inch of diameter of the mature trees.

The solar exposure of the site will help determine how much winter watering may be necessary to maintain the health of the plants. South facing slopes and extremely solar sites will heat up and dry out faster and consequently will require more watering. Shady conditions and north facing slopes may eliminate the need to winter water.

Reducing Water Use: Our Civic Duty

(Original Printing: Newsletter 2024) There may not be a water crisis in Northern Colorado presently, but recent weather patterns suggest it is just a matter of time before one exists. Currently a large swath of the US is experiencing vastly warmer and drier conditions than normal. If this trend persists, and assuming our demand on the freshwater supplies continue to increase, a national water crisis is bound to surface. After all, the record breaking snowfall most of the West received last winter barely put a dent in the water shortages throughout the region. In addition, “water wars” have begun to really heat up throughout the Colorado and Platte River Basins.

Alpenglow Sprinkler feels that reducing our water use, both inside and outside the home, has increasingly become our civic duty. Keeping out sprinkler systems in good repair is an important part of this solution, as over 60% of our summertime water consumption is from outdoor water use. Updated control clocks, rain or soil moisture sensors, proper irrigation scheduling and well designed systems will go a long way to achieving significant water savings.

However, there are numerous ways to achieve reduced outdoor water use that have little or nothing to do with sprinkler system efficiencies. Many of these individually may have a marginal effect on our consumption of water, but in combination the water savings could be significant.

I will attempt to shed some light on a few of these “Best Management” practices aimed at reducing our outdoor water use. Some of these recommendations may not be easily accepted by landscape maintenance companies as they very well may impact their businesses when implemented, but the rewards could be far reaching (i.e., help fill up our aquifers and reservoirs).

One easy way to achieve this goal and save money at the same time is to reduce our use of nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which promotes rapid leaf growth, and in turn requires more water to keep the affected plants healthy. In addition, on lawn areas this requires an increased need to mow more often. The age-old belief that one needs to apply these fertilizers 3 or 4 times a season has been seen by many environmentally conscious people as being extreme and another potential source of the polluting of our waterways.

Mulching the lawn clippings can help reduce the need to fertilize and the clippings help increase the water retention properties of the soil. Another benefit of mulching might be eliminating the hassle and cost of hauling the clippings away and assumably paying to dump them. This may seem like it would hardly affect the consumption of water, but if most property owners adopted this practice the water savings would be significant, as would the reduced fuel consumption and associated air pollution of needlessly hauling the clippings to a recycling entity.

Another practice proven to reduce water use is to have the lawn cut at a taller height as the resulting blade length helps shade the soil to some degree. This could impair a sprinkler system’s ability to deliver water to the lawn effectively, especially when the heads are too low or outdated, typically having a shorter popup height. Both of these shortcomings can be addressed relatively easily and affordably. Raising the height of the mower’s blades is especially effective during the last mowing of the season as the taller turf tends to over-winter better on the moisture that Mother Nature provides.

These are just a few of the ways we can pitch in to help reduce our demand on our limited freshwater supplies, while growing healthy lawns and landscapes and reducing our impact on the environment. My hope is that these practices become widely accepted and help to improve the quality of life here in Northern Colorado.

Landscape Drip Irrigation; A Perceived Panacea to Water Conservation

(Original Printing: Newsletter 2024) Drip irrigation can be one of the best ways to grow healthy landscapes while conserving copious amounts of water. When installed correctly, and with an eye towards longevity and ease of maintenance, drip systems avoid the problems of excessive runoff, evaporation and especially the application of water where it’s not needed, all while keeping repair and renovation costs to a minimum. Unfortunately, too many people, both green industry professionals and do-it-yourself homeowners, misunderstand the theory concerning the proper application of drip irrigation in the landscape.

One of the most common and egregious practices of installing drip irrigation follows the belief that if you can't see the water, it’s not working. This couldn't be further from the truth and is not likely what the developers of drip irrigation intended when they developed the water-conserving practice in the 1960's and 70's. To reduce the evaporative rate of the irrigation water, it is best if one applies the water directly to the root system of the plants(s) intended to be watered. Targeting the water also tends to reduce the need for mechanical or chemical weed control.

There are situations when the broadcasting of the irrigation water is preferable, utilizing either micro-spray, or in some cases popup heads. Areas of mass plantings of annuals, biennials or densely planted perennials would no doubt all benefit from a thorough wetting of the surrounding soil, and some plants will benefit from the washing off of dust and debris from the foliage. However this type of “drip irrigation” not only promotes unwanted weed growth but also tends to waste excessive amounts of water through evaporation and runoff.

Many times the most efficient manner of watering mass plantings is utilizing a matrix of pre-emitted drip pipe laid down in a uniform fashion. This eliminates the need to “punch” in emitters and greatly reduces the chance of emitter expulsion or malfunction. Pre-emitted drip pipe comes in various application rates and spacings between emitters making it easy to complement the watering need of any landscape. Being prone to “shovel blight” is possibly the biggest disadvantage to using pre-emitted drip pipe as it can be hard to spot and is relatively easy to puncture. Note: When designing a drip system one should be mindful not to exceed the flow capacity of a given drip system by using excessive amounts of pre-emitted drip pipe or emitters.

Drip irrigation systems use gravity to pull the water down through the root zone of the plant material, as well as laterally utilizing capillary action. The distance of lateral movement depends greatly on the type of soil on site and should be considered when positioning the drip emitters. Capillary action typically allows one to position the emitters near the plant material in proximity to the undisturbed soil but near the edge of the root ball of the plant(s) intended to be watered. This will help promote root growth into the adjacent soil.

The type of soil present on the site should also be considered when determining the best products to use when designing a drip system. Hard, densely packed clay soils don’t absorb water very well and can result in excessive runoff if the water is applied too quickly. Conversely, coarse sandy soil will not promote runoff but nor does it allow for much capillary action due to the size of the soil’s pore spaces. Similarly sandy soils will not retain the moisture as it drains quickly. Consequently, the soil type should be considered when developing a proper watering schedule.

In summary, drip irrigation is definitely an important tool for the irrigation designer, landscape manager or the typical homeowner aiming to conserve water while growing healthy, vibrant landscapes and reducing the need for weed control. The end result depends on the amount of thought and planning used to design the drip system as well as the workmanship implemented installing the system.

Northern Colorado’s Water Dilemma

Most of you are probably aware that much of Colorado  has been going through a substantial period of drought,  especially where it hurts the most, namely in the mountains.  The Colorado snowpack at the time of this writing (Jan  ’26) is at record lows, and long range forecasts give little  reason to expect much change for at least several weeks.  As we all know, the snow that lands in the mountains is  used to water our gardens and lawns in the summer. 

To add to the drought situation, the northern front range  has been experiencing one of the warmest and driest  falls/early winters on record. In the Fort Collins area,  December smashed over 130 years of record keeping  as being the very warmest on record! If it weren’t for the  rains we received back in September, we would be in a  state of drought. 

Fortunately for the Fort Collins area residents, it appears  there is sufficient water in Horsetooth Reservoir for the time  of year. However, river flow rates down the Poudre and  Big Thompson Rivers are way down due to the general  lack of moisture. A substantial amount of moisture is needed to get them back up to where they should be.   

Consequently, nobody knows what kind of water  restrictions might be exacted on front range residents  and water consumers this coming growing season as  the Northern Colorado Water Conservation District won’t  announce its allocations to its water purveyors until  early spring. We can only hope that we begin receiving  precipitation soon, especially in the mountains! In the  meantime, please remember to winter water your trees  and shrubs unless Mother Nature starts to provide us some adequate moisture.


Landscape Drip Irrigation; Panacea to Water Conservation 

Drip irrigation can be one of the best ways to grow healthy landscapes while conserving copious amounts of water.  When installed correctly with an eye towards longevity and ease of maintenance, drip systems avoid the problems of excessive runoff, evaporation and especially the application of water where it’s not needed, all while keeping repair and renovation costs to a minimum. Unfortunately, many green industry professionals and do-it-yourself homeowners misunderstand the theory concerning the proper application of drip irrigation in the landscape. 

One of the most common and egregious practices of installing drip irrigation follows the belief that if you can’t see the water, it's not working. This couldn’t be further from the truth and is not likely what the developers of drip irrigation intended when they developed the water-conserving practice in the 1960’s and 70’s. To reduce the evaporative rate of the irrigation water, it is best if one applies the water directly to the root system of the plant(s) intended to be watered. Targeting the water also tends to reduce the need for as much mechanical or chemical weed control surrounding soil, and some plants will benefit from the washing off of dust and debris from the foliage. However, this type of “drip irrigation” not only promotes unwanted weed growth but also tends to waste excessive amounts of water through evaporation and runoff. Many times, the most efficient manner of watering mass plantings is utilizing a matrix of pre-emitted drip pipe laid down in a uniform fashion. This eliminates the need to “punch”  

in emitters and greatly reduces the chance of emitter expulsion or malfunction.  Pre-emitted drip pipe comes in various application  rates and spacings between emitters making it easy to  complement the watering need of any landscape. Being  prone to accidental damage is possibly the biggest  disadvantage to using pre-emitted drip pipe as it can be hard to spot and is relatively  easy to puncture. Note: When designing a  drip system one should be mindful not to exceed the flow capacity of a given drip system by using excessive amounts of pre-emitted drip pipe or emitters. 

Drip irrigation systems use gravity to pull the water down through the root zone of the plant material, as well as laterally utilizing capillary action. The distance of lateral movement depends greatly on the type of soil on site and should be considered when positioning the drip emitters. Capillary action typically allows one to position the emitters near the plant material in proximity  to the undisturbed soil but near the edge of the root ball  of the plant(s) intended to be watered. This will help  promote root growth into the adjacent soil.The type of soil present on the site should also be considered when determining the best products to use.


The Soil/Water/Plant Relationship

Growing healthy viable plants is the goal of most homeowners and property managers as this invariably affects the property's habitability. After all, plants can provide shade, privacy, protection from the elements, and soil stabilization, as well as aesthetic beauty and charm. In order to maximize the health and vigor of a property's plant life, it is advisable to better understand the relationship that soil and water have on these plants.

It has been proven that plants don't need just nutrients, but also air and of course the correct amount of water within the root zone for optimal growth. Too much water and the plants' roots will decay from an anaerobic condition. Conversely, too much air (i.e. not enough water) will produce a decreased growth rate or possibly death if the permanent wilting point is surpassed. Balancing the introduction of water and air into the soil is the primary objective of the irrigation manager.

Soil is generally the term used for the surface soil or topsoil on a site where the majority of plants extract the nutrients and water necessary for growth. In the arid West, more specifically along the Front Range of Colorado, this top layer is predominantly mineral or inorganic in composition. In other words, these soils are very limited, if not mostly void, of any organic matter or humus. This, in turn, affects the suitability of the soil for the introduction of water and air into the soil, both of which are necessary for optimal plant growth.

Of course, the composition and texture of the soils within the Northern Front Range and even within a given community varies considerably. However, since some generalities can be made about the types of soil prevalent in our area, some entities, such as the City of Fort Collins, have passed legislation concerning the amending of soils to help in the health and vigor of plant life. More specifically, the City of Fort Collins mandates the introduction and tilling in of prescribed amounts of organic matter in the top 6-12 inches of the topsoil before the implementation of any new landscapes in order to encourage root growth. This promotes the availability of nutrients and the introduction of both water and air into the root zone of the affected soils.

`Many homeowners and property managers take on the job of an irrigation manager by themselves as a cost-cutting alternative. This can prove to accomplish just the opposite if the plant/soil/water relationship is not taken into consideration because both the health and vigor of the plants can be negatively impacted. Consequently, the application rates of the sprinkler zones and the various microclimates as well as the topography and layout of the landscape to be watered within a given site should be taken into account when a sprinkler system's schedule is formulated. However, all of these factors are influenced either directly or indirectly by the soils and the landscape plantings present on the site.

Generally speaking, the predominant clay soils of the Front Range take water in at a very slow rate, but also "let go" of this plant-available water at an equally slow rate. The compaction of these soils adds significantly to this decreased rate of water and air availability. It is for this reason, the practice of mechanically aerating the soils along the Front Range is commonly accepted in an attempt to increase the availability of both air and water in the surface soils.

The proper scheduling of any irrigation system goes hand in hand with the knowledge and understanding of the soils present on the site. No matter how dialed-in a sprinkler system's schedule may seem, the manager of any irrigation system needs to be observant of the landscape's health, as optimal scheduling is a matter of continually tweaking the start and run times. For example, the perceptive irrigation manager is aware that Kentucky bluegrass turf is a good indicator of proper irrigation scheduling as it tends to turn a bluish tint when it begins to reach its wilting point. Knowing this, he/she allows the bluegrass lawn to be watered only once the turf begins to turn this off-green color. This in turn helps promote a deeper root growth as the turf searches for more water. Consequently, a healthier turf is achieved as the root zone expands downward and allows for the absorption of more nutrients and water. This is especially effective during a prolonged drought, either during the off-season when the irrigation system is turned off or whenever water restrictions are in force.

In summary, Alpenglow Sprinkler is constantly striving to reach that optimal balance between saving water and money(!) for our clients while providing just enough water for the optimal health of our customer's lawns and landscape plants. We appreciate the opportunity to work on your sprinkler systems and help keep your landscapes healthy!

Fitrite Backflow Covers Help Prevent Freeze Damage

Fitrite Backflow Covers Help Prevent Freeze Damage

The Fitrite backflow cover is intended to help extend the irrigation season by protecting backflow assemblies that are installed outside and above-ground from freeze damage that would otherwise be prone to sudden drops in outside temperatures.

In order to do this, the cover is made of weatherproof insulating materials and use Velcro hook and loop closures on three of it's four sides to facilitate it's installation. This also allows two covers to be joined together to help protect larger backflow assemblies.

The weatherproof properties of the insulation used in it's manufacturing allows the Fitrite cover to retain it's insulating properties regardless of the weather it is exposed to. Consequently, the cover maintains it's usefulness even after the backflow assembly it is covering "dumps" water as many are designed to occasionally do.

The Fitrite cover is by no means designed to substitute for properly draining or winterizing a sprinkler system's backflow device. Neither will the cover protect against periods of prolonged periods of temperatures below 32 degrees F or when outside temperatures drop well below 25 degrees F. To maintain the integrity of a backflow device under these conditions, it is recommended to provide an adequate safe source of heat or properly drain the water from the backflow assembly. If a home or property owner is unsure how to take these evasive steps, the help of a knowledgeable professional is recommended.

Contrary to popular belief, the use of a Fitrite backflow cover is not necessary once a sprinkler system's baclflow device is drained or winterized, nor is it generally needed between June 15th and September 15th in the Northern Hemisphere. During these times it is best to store the cover indoors as it should last significantly longer when it is not exposed to the elements.

Please feel free to call Alpenglow Sprinkler if you have any questions or would like to request a Fitrite cover to be installed on your bacflow assembly to ensure it's proper installation and the piece of mind it provides!